One of the nicest things anyone has offered to do for me is nothing because, as we all well know, nothing can mean everything, especially if you are having an argument or have just knocked over a tinned bean display in the supermarket.
It’s actually very difficult to do absolutely nothing, and these were the thoughts I was pondering as we tootled around Groote Post in a game-viewing vehicle. My conclusion was that sometimes it’s extremely pleasant to be doing nothing more than going on a scenic drive. No pressure, no real purpose.
Well, sort of. Farmer Nick Pentz – who comes from a long line of dairy farmers stretching back four generations – takes visitors on what he calls a “farm drive” which may or may not include spotting some of the nine species of antelope, wildebeest or ostriches on the 4 000 hectare farm, and culminates in a bit of wine-tasting in the vineyards high up on the hills. So, yes, there is a purpose but until the wine is opened you can sit back, relax and simply take in the view.
Groote Post is near Darling, and just a few kilometres from the ocean as the crow flies, so the cool nautical breeze makes the area good for sauvignon blanc.
They also grow a few other varietals, and have just released a rather interesting Méthode Cap Classique which is 50 percent merlot, and the rest the more conventional chardonnay/pinot noir.
There is something quite special about drinking the wine that came from the very block of sauvignon blanc vines that you are being shown and I would like to say that’s what we did but it was chenin blanc in our glasses.
We bounced back down the hill and I was introduced to Shaun McLaughlin who, along with his wife Debbie, runs the farm’s restaurant, Hilda’s Kitchen. It’s named for Hildegonda Duckitt, a food legend on the West Coast and in South Africa. She grew up on the farm, where she was born in 1840. Fancy that!
McLaughlin is very knowledgeable about wine and is in charge of the Darling wine route. He very kindly whisked me off to Darling after lunch and showed me around. It’s a very typical small town where everyone knows everyone else and it is very quaint. They have a lovely little museum full of things from the town’s history. The Vleis Mark (meat market) sells tasty chops and wors, and every Friday at the Marmalade Cat they do pizza nights, and everybody comes.
Darling is perhaps most well known for Evita Se Perron, the headquarters of Tannie Evita Bezuidenhout, still the most famous white woman in South Africa. It’s too gorgeous for words, with a cosy corner for reading books (which you can buy), a fantastical, magical art garden called Boerassic Park, a tiny garden restaurant full of calico cats, and, of course, the theatre where Evita does her performances. For more information go to www.evita.co.za
Besides Groote Post there are four more wine farms in the area – Cloof (which hosts the Rocking The Daisies rock festival in October), Darling Cellars, Ormonde (nice olives too) and Tukulu. You can get more information from www.darlingtourism.co.za or call 022 492 3361.
Meanwhile back at the farm, before all this happened, McLaughlin guided me through a wine-tasting ranging from the entry level red and white blends (they are quite delicious) up to the posher ones like the weisser riesling and the unwooded chardonnay.
Mrs McLaughlin is cordon-bleu trained and the food at Hilda’s Kitchen is delicious and the setting divine. Not for nothing did the illustrious Eat Out guide select it as one of its top 10 al fresco places. I tried the Old Man’s steak roll with thick crispy-on-the-outside-fluffy-on-the-inside chips and garlicky, creamy sauce. The old man, incidentally, is Nick Pentz’s dad, Peter, and he has the red and white blends named after him too.
The menu changes frequently but the steak roll will always be there. For your sake, I hope the lemon tart is too, because it’s wickedly good.
Darling, and Groote Post, are about an hour’s drive from the city. Groote Post is kid-friendly with rolling lawns, swings and a jungle gym. The more energetic among us can go on solo or guided nature walks, or chill in the bird hide.
Hilda’s Kitchen: lunch Wednesdays to Sundays; wine-tasting and sales: Monday – Friday 8am to 5pm, Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays 10am to 3pm (closed Christmas and New Year’s Day); farm drives: daily, starting at 10am (bookings must be made 24 hours in advance, R100 per adult and R50 for children under 12, minimum six and maximum 10 people).
For bookings call 022 492 2825, e-mail [email protected] or go to www.grootepost.co.za
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